Cruise on the Nile

Egypt | Splendour of the Nile between light and history – July 2023

Navigating the Nile is much more than just a travel experience: it is a dive into Egypt's thousand-year history. Recently, I had the chance to experience this unique adventure, and I wish to take you with me through my words and photos, from the peaceful shores of Luxor to the splendors of Aswan.

The boat: The DA VINCI, a floating gem

My adventure on the Nile began aboard the DA VINCI, an elegant cruise ship where every detail seemed thought to seduce the eye and mind. With its clean lines and refined atmosphere, it offered an ideal setting to capture the magic of the Nile. The large bay windows revealed panoramas in perpetual movement, transforming each moment into a photographic scene.

Beyond its aesthetics, DA VINCI was a meeting place. Among the passengers, I met passionate and open travellers, with whom the enriching discussions rhythmized the evenings. The upper bridge, bathed in the golden light of sunset, was my favourite place to immortalize the changing reflections of the river.

Of course, this boat was a shop of travelling memories, almost everything was good for sale but the radiant smile of the employees and their generosity made us forget the mercantile aspect of the cruise.

 On board the Da Vinci, while the Nile stretches peacefully under the last rays of the sun, the spectacle becomes enchanting. Through the metal circle of the basting, the setting sun seems framed as a natural art work, perfectly reflecting on the still water. This suspended moment, where the sky melts in the river in a game of symmetry and golden light, illustrates all the magic of a cruise on the Nile. A temporary scene, but engraved forever in the lens and memory.

First release in Luxor   

The first trip was to Luxor, a city with timeless charm. I was struck by the unique atmosphere that reigned there, bathing in a ubiquitous sand colour, enveloping both buildings and streets. We felt that the city was frozen in time, as if it retained the authenticity of its remains. The narrow alleys, lined with lively stalls, added even more to its picturesque character.

Everywhere, children wandered, a malicious smile at the corner of their lips. They used to approach us sometimes to ask for a bakchich, sometimes to sell us small coloured babioles. For them, misery was not a fatality, even if it stuck to their skin as a shadow. They clinged to life with admirable resilience, facing their reality with an unarming good mood, like a nosefoot to their condition.

During this visit, of course, we had tea in one of the most popular cafes: Oum Kaltoum coffee, a place full of history. Sitting at a wrought iron table, we felt like we were going back into the atmosphere of the 1950s, as if time had stopped, frozen in a past era, but still present in every detail of the decor.

This iconic café pays tribute to the famous Egyptian singer Oum Kalthum, considered one of the largest voices in the Arab world. As soon as we enter, we are wrapped in a nostalgic atmosphere, where its music resonates in sound background, adding a melancholic and timeless touch to the experience. The photos of the diva hung on the walls and the traditional decoration carry visitors to Egypt from the 50-60s, an era marked by cultural and artistic effervescence. This café is a popular meeting place, both by the inhabitants and by travellers seeking authenticity. It embodies the soul of Luxor, offering a break out of time, where one can enjoy a mint tea or an Arabic coffee while contemplating the peaceful rhythm of the city.

As I walked through the alleys of this intriguing city, I fell nose to nose with this man coming out of another time, he was shooting at his nargile with a slow gesture and full of grace he seemed to have been there for hundreds of years. His face fascinated me, his presence and this charism that was emerging from him was mesmerizing, I approached him to find out more but he wasn't very talkative I dared to ask him permission to take a picture. He looked so kindly at me that his smile seemed like an offering. I still remember this unexpected encounter as a present that was offered to me.

 The Valley of Kings seen from the sky: a dream awakened

Nestled on the west bank of the Nile, opposite Luxor, the Valley of Kings is one of Egypt's most fascinating archaeological sites. This royal necropolis, used between the 16th and 11th centuries B.C., houses the tombs of many Pharaohs of the New Empire, the most famous of which remains that of Tutankhamon. Buried under the arid hills, these burials testify to the eternal quest of the Egyptian rulers, their walls are covered with frescoes with still bright colors, despite the weight of centuries.

But discovering the Valley of Kings is not limited to walking its funeral corridors. That morning, the experience took on a completely different dimension. Alarm clock at 3 a.m., departure under a still starry sky, then the feverish wait before the ballooning.

At 6 o'clock, carried by warm air, the balloon slowly rises, revealing a breathtaking panorama. Under our feet, temples and tombs appear in the golden light of dawn, while the Nile winds peacefully in the valley.

A balance between the elements: hot air balloons suspended in a clear sky, soft golden light caressing the landscape and striking contrasts between green land, winding road and dry desert reliefs.

This photo tells a story: that of a moment suspended in time, where the spectator becomes an aerial explorer contemplating a territory full of mystery and history. There is a beautiful depth, which naturally guides the look from the lush foreground towards the temples and hills of the desert, accentuating the feeling of travel in space and time.

For a photographer, it is a moment out of time, a quest for the perfect setting where the sweetness of sunrise sublimates the contrasts between the desert, greenery and ancient remains. The lens captures the magic of the moment, this ephemeral light that envelops the reliefs, transforming the Valley of Kings into a living fresco. Suspended in the air, the camera in hand, difficult not to feel the euphoria of a rare privilege: see Egypt from an angle that even Pharaohs have never known.

Hatchepsout Temple: The legacy of a Queen Pharaoh

Hatchepsout, one of the few women to have reigned as a Pharaoh, marked the history of ancient Egypt by her prosperous reign in the 15th century B.C. Visionary and strategist, she commissioned the building of a funeral temple in her image: grand and harmonious. Nestled at the foot of the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari, its temple stands out for its terraced architecture, integrated into the desert landscape with remarkable elegance.

As the site approaches, the effect is striking. The monumental façade rises in perfect steps, supported by long colonnades, creating an impression of majesty and symmetry. Behind, the rocky walls offer a striking contrast, as if the temple were a natural extension of the mountain. Inside, the wall reliefs narrate the queen's exploits: her expeditions to the land of Punt and her divine ascension.

The visit is an immersion in the history and architectural ingenuity of ancient Egypt. Under the overwhelming heat, the progression between the terraces and the rooms adorned with hieroglyphics takes us into the fascist of the New Empire. Observing the still vibrant statues and frescoes of colours, one imagines the grandeur of a time when Hatchepsout reigned as an absolute sovereign.

The valley of kings: guided tour

After the majesty of the Valley of Kings seen from the sky, the terrestrial discovery was a completely different experience. Approaching by bus, In the face of a continuous flow of tourists thrown over by dozens of buses, the enchantment faded.. The long queues, noisy effervescence and restricted access to the most fascinating tombs broke the magic of the place. What was supposed to be a dive into history turned into a desecration of this sacred place, emptied of its solemnity by incessant agitation. On leaving the funeral galleries, one thought was that perhaps the aerial contemplation of dawn on these millennia would have sufficed.

The Nile: a journey to the rhythm of the river

Every morning, at awakening, the Nile revealed a new face, like a living calendar where each panorama was a work in perpetual motion. The first lights of the day shone the surface of the river, revealing the slender silhouettes of the flouses, these traditional boats that silently slipped over the water, sails swollen by the morning breeze. On its shores, life awakened to the unchanging rhythm of the feeding river: fishermen threw their nets in the hope of a catch, while peasants, bent on their green fields, made a generous land grow. Further on, merchants loaded their boats with goods, perpetuating a millenary trade where the Nile was much more than just a river: it was an arteries of life.

Aswan: A Step Between Beauty and Serenity

After walking along the Nile, we arrived in Aswan, a city where time seems to be suspended. As a photographer, shades of light and reflections on the water were a constant source of inspiration. The traditional globs, sails swollen by the wind, were perfect subjects.

Aswan – The Aga Khan Mausoleum: When you go to Aswan, you cannot miss this majestic building that this mausoleum is.

Perched on a hill overlooking the Nile in Aswan, this mausoleum is the resting place of the Sultan Mohammed Shah Aga Khan III (1877-1957). A spiritual leader of the Nizarite Ismaelians, he was an influential figure of the twentieth century, playing a major role in defending Muslim interests and promoting social and economic progress, particularly in India and Africa. A great fan of Egypt, he chose Aswan for his last rest, seduced by the peaceful beauty of the site and the mild climate. His wife, Begum Aga Khan, continued to maintain the mausoleum and perpetuated her memory by placing a red rose on her grave every day, a tradition that lasted until her own disappearance in 2000.

Proudly towering on the top of a desert hill, the stone building, with a fatimid inspiration, stands out on a sky where clouds seem to dance under a soft and dramatic light at once. Below, a striking contrast between the arid landscape and the lush greenery of the gardens bordering the Nile.

The foreground, occupied by the dark and calm waters of the river, reinforces the feeling of serenity of the place. The black rocks that emerge from the banks add a touch of harshness to this scene, recalling the duality of Aswan: a green setting in the heart of the desert. The ensemble composes a mysterious picture, where the mausoleum seems silently watching over the eternal river.

Aswan – The Temple of Philae: a jewel saved from the waters

The Temple of Philae, dedicated to the goddess Isis, is one of the most beautiful shrines of ancient Egypt. Built in the Ptolemaic era on the island of Philae, it was a major religious centre until the sixth century AD when the Byzantine Empire banned the worship of pagan deities. But his story doesn't end there. With the construction of the first dam in Aswan at the beginning of the 20th century, then of the High Dam in the 1960s, the temple was gradually swallowed under the waters of the Nile.

Rather than seeing it disappear forever, a titanium project was undertaken under the auspices of UNESCO: the temple was dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt on the neighbouring island of Agilkia, an impressive rescue that preserved this millennial masterpiece. Today, the temple still seems to float on the water, offering visitors a striking spectacle, between history and resilience.

The objective reveals all the magic of Temple of Philae: It seems to float between sky and water. Since the Nile, its perfect reflection on the surface of the river gives it an almost unreal aura, as suspended from time. Saved from the waters after its dismantling and reconstruction on the island of Agilkia, it stands today in all its splendor. The golden light of the sun glides over the ancient stone, sublimating the delicately carved reliefs of the columns and contrasting with the lush vegetation that surrounds it. A striking balance between the majesty of the past and the sweetness of a preserved landscape.

A black cat, peacefully installed among the columns, seems to be the silent guardian, immobile witness of the thousand-year history of the place.

Between the deep sky, majestic ruins and serenity of the Nile, Philae appears as a fragment of eternity, preserved from the waves to continue to tell his story.

Back to Luxor, under a burning sky

As our boat leaves Aswan to start the journey back to Luxor, our starting point, the Nile offers us a last flamboyant farewell. The sun, like a dying blaze, sinks slowly into the horizon, painting the river with golden, purple and dezur hues. The perfect reflections on the water prolong the magic of the moment, like a mirror where the sky and the earth blend together.

This great sunset accompanies our final crossing, leaving behind the temples and dunes, the felouques and fertile banks. A goodbye full of serenity, with this certainty that the Nile, eternal, will continue to murmur its stories long after our passage.

The end word: A timeless journey on the Nile

Navigate on the Nile, it is much more than just a journey: it is an immersion in the very soul of Egypt, a crossing where each stopover reveals a new facet of this millennium civilization. From Luxor to Aswan, passing through majestic temples, villages nestled by the river and landscapes bathed in lightThis cruise offered much more than architectural discoveries: it was a meeting with history, nature and especially with the Egyptian people.

Throughout the journey, the warmth and hospitality of the Egyptians marked this journey with an unforgettable imprint. From boatmen to souk merchants, passionate guides to the inhabitants of the Nile, all generously shared their culture, knowledge and smile. These sincere exchanges brought a human dimension to the experience, recalling that Egypt is not only an open-air museum, but also a living land inhabited by a proud and welcoming people.

There were these suspended moments, as the ballooning over the Valley of Kings, when dawn slowly revealed the remains of a past world. There was the magic of Temple of Philae, saved from the waters, and the silent greatness of Aga Khan mausoleum, towering on the heights of Aswan. There was Nile, a tireless journey companion, a reflection of the changing skies and witness of past centuries.

But above all, there was this unique sensation of exploring a land that carries in him eternity, where each stone tells a story, where each sunrise illuminates the traces of a fascinating past. Leaving the Nile means closing a book knowing that its pages will continue to live in us, as an invitation to come back one day and continue the adventure.